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The bread chronicles, part II

I have a friend who has been spending a good part of the summer perfecting his bread technique.  Every couple of days, I get an email detailing his progress.  Here's an example from a recent email:

This refrigerated dough thing is definitely great, it's going to be my go-to bread for white loaves.  I might have two different doughs in the fridge at once, maybe one with up to 10% rye, and another with some (but not too much) whole wheat flour in it.  I'm also going to keep making the 30% oat flour bread with raisins and pecan ... in the standard no knead method.  And I'm going to start working on a sourdough starter and then will try to figure out how to incorporate it into my process...

It's been funny to receive what is basically his bread diary.  And, while I care about how it's going, I really wasn't relating to the whole bread thing.  Because, you know, I wasn't a baker. Until Monday.  When we left off a couple of days ago, my bread was in the oven and I was waiting for it to finish. 

My first loaf of bread

It came out!  It was a little funny looking and scrawny (length of a dollar bill, as you can see), but totally delicious.  You can see from this picture that it was small and kind of dense because I handled it poorly.  But whatever.  I.  Made.  Bread.

"It's stupid how happy this loaf of bread has made me," I wrote to him that night while noshing on my creation.

Since then, I made another loaf that came out way better than the first.  ("What hydration was this?  I'm guessing based on the large holes that it was 80%, right?" asked the bread guru.)  I have to say that I can finally see what all you bread people have been going on and on about lately.  It's really satisfying and delicious.  I work at home, and in a more random moment today I thought that I could make bread for my neighbors and charge them to have hot bread ready when they got home.  That went by the wayside when I reminded myself that I have a real job, and cannot give it up to be a baker after only two loaves.

My first loaf of bread

"Oh, darn it," my mom said, acting disappointed, "this oven doesn't bake either."

It was 1981 and my sister and I were standing in the kitchen of our new house staring up at her.  I was so disappointed to hear of our bad luck.  The house that we had just left in Lake Arrowhead had an oven that didn't bake and now it seemed that that the new one didn't either. 

Mom could make us delicious savory concoctions in the oven including scalloped potatoes, macaroni and cheese, and stuffed mushrooms, but something about the circuitry of the oven didn't allow it to bake sweet dishes or breads.  No cakes, no cookies, and no pies.  While other mothers had the scent of chocolate chip cookies coming out of their ovens, ours often sat cold.  At two different houses, mom convinced us that she would love to bake sweets for us, but that it was impossible with our ovens.

Trusting (or gullible) as I was, I went along with this story, sometimes relating it to the parents of friends who probably didn't know what to say to my pronouncement that our oven didn't bake.  I went along with the story until the day of the Ethiopian Bake Sale.  There was a famine in Ethiopia, and we were all asked to bring baked items to school for a bake sale fundraiser.  Mom sent brownies that she had made, and the jig was up -- I finally realized that the oven did bake, but that it was my mother who didn't unless Ethiopians were involved.

Not surprising given my upbringing, but I've never been a baker.  I make a cake or cookies every once in a while, but baking has always been a mystery that I have not mastered.  That is why it was significant that I listed "bake something" as a task on my 20 Things to do in 30 Days.  I needed to tackle bread.  So finally, nearly two years after the no-knead bread craze, I made my own loaf and it's in the oven as I write this.

I hope my oven bakes!

City Guides Tours, San Francisco

Somewhere in my pile of notebooks, I have a list of things that I need to do before I ever leave San Francisco.  "See Alcatraz" was on that list before I finally went a couple of years ago.  There are some items on the list that I'm embarrassed to admit I've never done.  I am happy, however, that the list is being slowly whittled down.

I've been exploring the city and seeing some of the important sights that I had never stopped to pay attention to before.  Some of this is due to a goal that I've undertaken with my neighbor Jenn: we are trying to go on a San Francisco City Guides tour every weekend when possible with our schedules.  So far, we've gone on three and are really looking forward to going on more.  They're run by volunteers who are really into San Francisco history, and enjoy giving the tours.  On every tour, I've learned interesting new facts about SF.

Hands down, my favorite tour so far has been of Dogpatch and Potrero Point.  The area is fascinating, and if you're into seeing old rundown buildings like the one pictured above, this would be a great tour for you.  City Guides offers too many tours to count and are an excellent way to spend a couple of hours getting to know San Francisco.  You can see more pictures of the Dogpatch tour on my Flickr site.

20 things, update

A few days ago, I posted a list of 20 things that I would like to do in 30 days.  Six days later, I've been able to accomplish a few of them.

I've posted every day on at least one blog. Each post hasn't necessarily had a ton of substance, but I think it's getting me back in the habit of daily communication, which is a good thing. If only twitter counted, this task wouldn't be quite as difficult.

This week, I was able to unplug all day Saturday. I actually answered my phone, but the main goal was to get me off of the email --> facebook --> twitter --> flickr --> bloglines cycle that I can sometimes take in order to be up to date with what's going on in my network. This task was sadly hard for me. I put this one on the list with a definite purpose -- I need to remember what it's like to not be tied to my smartphone, and to know that the Internet will go on without my constant checking of my favorite sites.

I ended up writing a letter this week to a neighbor that I've never met. This wasn't exactly what I was thinking when I wrote this task, but it definitely fits.

I actually was able to kiss two babies this week! The first was Diner #3, and the second was Sadie, the darling daughter of my best friend Jen.

I am a bit stuck on #20. I'm considering natto. A friend gave me a pack of gu today and suggested that be my food. In an ideal world, I'd like it to be an entire food that I haven't had, instead of a version of a food. For instance, this week, I had salted caramel ice cream from Bi-Rite for the first time (I know, I can't believe I waited this long either). While it may qualify for #20, I feel it's a cop out as it's just a different version of ice cream, which I am very familiar with. Any suggestions on a food I may have never eaten?

Also, did you all see that Sam posted her own list?  It's a trend!

Chantenay Carrots, Marin Roots Farm

Marinrootscarrotssm

I realize that in my list I said I would do a post a day for 30 days.  But friends, I am so dang tired.  It's been a very long week, but pretty satisfying in general.

I "had" to go to the San Rafael Farmers Market this morning.  I post about Bay Area farmers markets on Serious Eats about once a month, and I realized that I hadn't been to a market in a couple weeks.  I needed some fodder for my post this upcoming Monday.

So off I went.  I spied these lovely carrots at Marin Roots Farm.  I am pretty sure that the carrots on the left are chantenay, but I like to call them Mr. McGregor's carrots.

I hope you can get to a market sometime soon, it's a fantastic time of year to be there.

Ask me questions on the Fine Cooking Board.

Fcwebsite In association with the Ask the Expert column that I wrote in Fine Cooking this month (August/September edition), I will be available on the Fine Cooking site answering questions about eating locally for the next 10 days or so. 

Come see me and ask a question!

Caldo de Queso, A Family Recipe

Img246

My sister and I were raised in "it takes a village" fashion.  My mom was a single parent, so a lot of our after-school time was spent at my grandparents' house or at my godmother's house.  My godmother -- who we called Nina -- was a cousin of grandma's. 

While my mother was quite strict, we basically had the run of the house at Nina's.  She indulged us in nearly every way, letting us stay up late, letting us watch whatever we wanted on television, and letting us eat whatever we wanted.  By the time I was 10, I could have in-depth conversations with her about the characters on General Hospital and Young and the Restless.

For reasons that I can never explain, when we were in trouble, my sister Annie and I would be sent off to Nina's house which was the best "punishment" there was.  She would ask us what happened, and then pretend nothing was wrong and we went about our day, working with her in the garden, cooking, playing bingo, taking the bus to Newberry's, or watching t.v. together. 

In a testament to the innocence of the time (or my innocence), she would send me about a block away to the corner store to buy her cigarettes when I was about 11.  She would send me with a note, and they would oblige.  "Please allow Jennifer to buy cigarettes for me.  Thank you, Armida."  I usually had enough money leftover to buy grape flavored Now & Later candies, and then obediently walked back to bring her cigarettes.

While I spend a lot of time talking about my grandparents and their influence in my life and in the life of my family, I have no doubt that I am who I am today in part because of Nina's influence and her constant support.  She was always on my side.  And magically for two sisters who didn't always get along, she was also always on Annie's side. Nina died when I was 17 and beginning my senior year in high school.  It was the first death that absolutely rocked my world. 

Recently, mom gave me a copy of my application essay to Pepperdine.  And the topic of the essay was going to Nina's after school and having her make caldo de queso for me.  Caldo de queso is a very simple Mexican soup.  Realizing now how easy it is to make, I find it interesting that it held such magic for me when I was young.  It was the process of making it, and helping her chop the onions and cutting the potatoes and learning how to make it for myself.  I guess that's the allure of family recipes -- they don't have to be complicated and involved.  It can be the simplest dish, but the comfort that lies in the repetitiveness and the flavors that build a tapestry of memories.

Caldodequeso

Caldo de Queso

This simple soup features potatoes, green chilies, chicken broth and cheese.  Other than those base ingredients, the recipe is very forgiving.  Truth be told, Nina used to use canned Anaheim chilies, though I now use freshly roasted chilies.  Roasting chilies is a very simple process once you get the hang of it.  I do exactly as Elise teaches on her blog Simply Recipes -- it's the way I've always roasted them and Elise is a much better teacher than I.  I use Yukon Gold potatoes for their ability to stand up in a soup.  No need to worry about the heat of the poblano chilies -- they are usually quite sweet.  If you live in the Bay Area, try the poblanos from Catalan Farm.

This recipe yields approximately 4 servings.

Ingredients

3 poblano chiles, roasted and cut into small strips.
2 T olive oil
1/2 white onion chopped
4 cups chicken broth
2 medium sized potatoes chopped into 6-8 piece each
sharp cheddar cheese, grated or cut into small cubes for easy melting

Optional:
1 tomato
1 ear of fresh corn
1 handful cilantro, chopped

Instructions

1.  Heat olive oil in a medium soup pot over medium heat.
2.  Add onion, and saute until translucent.
3.  Add the chile strips and saute for about a minute.
4.  Add chicken broth and bring to a boil.
5.  Add potatoes, then return to a boil.  Lower flame to bring the liquid to a simmer.
6.  Cook until the potatoes are cooked through - approximately 15 minutes.  Add salt and pepper to taste.
7.  Ladle the soup into bowls, and add some cheese to each bowl.  The goal here is not to create a French Onion soup amount of cheese, rather the goal is to add just enough cheese that it will melt into the broth and become an added dimension to the liquid.  It turns the liquid creamy without yielding large, goopy mounds of cheese.

If you like cilantro, you may add some at the end.  If you like tomato, add it about 5 minutes before the potatoes are done.  Corn adds a summery sweetness to the soup and can be added about 2 minutes before the potatoes are done.

Top photo taken around 1977.  From the left that's me, my cousin Julie, my cousin Yvonne, and Nina holding my sister Annie.

20 things to do in 30 days

A couple of months ago, I picked up a copy of Sasha Cagen's book To-Do List: From Buying Milk to Finding a Soul Mate, What Our Lists Reveal about Us.  It's an inspiring book -- a collection of lists from strangers, and since reading it, I have written many lists for myself.

Cagen also has a blog, and last week she posted a list that caught my attention.  It was a list by a woman who wants to do 30 things before she turns thirty.  I turn 35 in about a month, and thought that I would tag on to this fabulous list.  What better way to ring in a new half-decade than by accomplishing some fun things leading up to it?

I'm excited about this idea.  Lord knows that I have more than I can handle on my plate at the moment, but these things seem fun and feel self-indulgent. A few things on my list are personal, so I've blanked them out.  I will keep you apprised of my progress as the month goes on.

20 THINGS TO DO IN 30 DAYS

1.  Post a day (post on any blog counts).
2.  Unplug for an entire day each week.
3.  Kiss a baby.
4.  Find 10 photos that will make a series.
5.  Take a self portrait.
6.  **********
7.  Photograph a stranger.
8.  **********
9.  **********
10.  Write a letter.
11.  Random act of kindness.
12.  Find a class to take.
13.  Write a thank you.
14.  Write an apology.
15.  Swing at a playground.
16.  Walk to Ocean Beach.
17.  Call an old friend.
18.  Do a volunteer project.
19.  Bake something.
20.  Eat something I've never had.

help from mommy

Last night, I hosted a Commonwealth Club event in Palo Alto.  I interviewed Jesse Cool in front of a good-sized crowd, and all in all it was a really great evening.  I find Chef Cook Cool (don't call her chef) to have a really refreshing point of view when it comes to sustainable eating, and will be talking about it more here within the next few days.

I had the support of a few great friends (and a new friend) who tagged along with me to Palo Alto, and as we arrived at the event I started to relax and know that everything was probably going to be okay.

******

My mother got a Blackberry recently.  This is giggle-worthy if you know my mother.  It's funny to put her in the same category as some of my friends when she buries her head in her Blackberry at all hours of the day.  Except that she has to concentrate.  Very hard.  But to tell you the truth, I kind of like it.  We now text a little ("My thumbs hurt," she texted me one day after a couple of back and forth exchanges) and I get pretty frequent, random emails from her.

******

As I walked into the event last night, my phone whistled and I looked down to find this oh-so-helpful email from my mom.  Nice to know that she had my back.

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: help from mommy
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2008
From: O.
To: J.

Here are some food jokes to warm up the crowd:

Q: What did the cannibal order for take-out?
A: Pizza with everyone on it.
________________________________

Q: What do cats call mice on skateboards?
A: Meals on wheels.
________________________________

Customer: Do you serve crabs here?
Waiter: Yessir, we'll serve just about anybody.

******

The evening ended with a lovely dinner at Tamarine.  I was a pain-in-the-neck customer as I kept calling to make our party bigger and bigger, and then we arrived 15 minutes late.  The restaurant couldn't have been more gracious at any step and the dinner was delicious, comfortable, and wonderfully paced.  The appetizers arrived right away, which was perfect as we were all starving and the rest of the meal came out in a relatively relaxed manner.  One benefit of having a wine maven as a friend is that she brought along a couple of really outstanding wines. 

******

I had a full-circle moment as trying to explain to a friend who all 10 people at the table were, and realizing how many of my roots come from Chowhound - the website that many love to hate.  Though the site sometimes drives me crazy, I am convinced that I would not be the person I am today (blogger, writer, food advocate) or know the friends I do today were it not through becoming a member of the Chowhound community when I arrived in San Francisco eight years ago. 

******

I am still thinking about our meal today, especially the clay pot black cod, the lemongrass bass, the delicate coconut rice, and the enveloping support that I felt from friends new and old.

******



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